I've been wanting to post these raw one session videos for a while, but haven't had the chance to film too much lately! I always really enjoyed watching a raw session of surfers. Complete rides, falls, etc... It's easy to film for a while and showcase the best of the best, but I think it's interesting to see what a whole session looks like. I followed up with Jacob Vanderwork (he filmed these) a little late and he had already tossed some of my lesser waves from this session, but these were the whole waves he kept.
This session was during the US open. I had already lost in the event but stuck around to take advantage of some fun south swell at lowers. I had a few new boards to try and lowers was pumping. The first board I rode was a hyfi 2.0 Xero model. The Xero is a bit flatter rocker and fuller outline. I've been riding it a lot around home and in some of the events on the challenger series. It has sick speed and glide in the smaller weaker surf, but as I found out this day, can also handle a bit of size on the wave. Especially a flatter wave like lowers.
The second board is my favorite 5'10 Monsta 20 but in Hyfi 2.0. I love the monsta and this board feels so good in this construction. It felt like the perfect board for pumping lowers and gives the board a little bit more of a sparky on top of the water feel. However, it still holds a rail really well and doesn't feel squirley or weird like an epoxy can. I felt like I had a bit more control on this board and could turn harder in the steeper parts of the wave than the Xero in this size of surf.